Latest Wine Headlines: March 31–April 4

Yo. There’s a lot of…stuff…✌️🥂

 

 

LOCAL STUFF

Federal Judge Decides Not to Get Involved in Small Winery’s Dispute Over Entitlements with Napa County

A federal judge on Friday decided not to get involved in the federal case Hoopes Vineyard filed against Napa County over wine tastings and other rules, according to court filings.

Hoopes Vineyard and two other family-owned Napa Valley wineries, Smith-Madrone/Cooks Flat Associates and Summit Lake Vineyards & Winery LLC, in September sued Napa County in federal court alleging the county rules were vague, unclear and arbitrary.

On Friday, U.S. District Judge Charles Breyer said it was appropriate for him to abstain in the Hoopes Vineyard federal case because of the ongoing case in state court. The federal judge also dismissed Smith-Madrone’s and Summit Lake’s claim against the Napa County.

“Federal courts have a ‘virtually unflagging obligation’ to exercise their jurisdiction. Yet there are instances where the demands of our federal system require federal courts not to exercise their jurisdiction in order to avoid unnecessary conflicts with the states,” Breyer wrote. READ MORE…

Every glass of wine costs the same at this Bay Area restaurant — no matter the bottle price

By now, we’re used to the term “wine bar” not really meaning much of anything. These days, half the places that self-identify with the label appear to just be old-fashioned restaurants. But Goodtime Bar in San Jose actually feels like a bar.

The 2-year-old establishment earned a spot on the Chronicle’s Top 100 restaurants list, half of which — Nos. 51-100 — dropped on Monday. (We’re all very excited about this list, which is returning after a six-year hiatus under the care of my talented colleagues MacKenzie Chung Fegan and Cesar Hernandez. Stay tuned for the top 50 reveal next week!)

Writing about Goodtime Bar, which clocked in at No. 90 this year, Cesar and MacKenzie shouted out its bucatini with sour tom yum butter and “melty” bluefin tostada with salsa macha. (I’ll also put in a good word for the deviled eggs with crab fat mayo and trout roe.) So obviously, this is not your average bar food, and it wouldn’t be hard to assemble a hearty, satisfying dinner here. In fact, the menu is so appealing that I’d argue it would be hard not to. READ MORE…

More LeFever Mattson properties approved for sale

A bankruptcy court judge has granted the embattled LeFever Mattson company’s approval to sell dozens of residential and commercial properties in Sonoma and Solano counties and beyond, including the original Ravenswood winery.

Sonoma real estate developer Ken Mattson and his former business partner Tim LeFever had amassed a real estate portfolio of several hundred properties, valued at an estimated $400 million. The two men are now involved in a legal battle that includes claims of breach of contract and fraud.

In the past two months, the court approved the real estate investment firm’s applications to hire seven brokerages to list for sale 161 commercial and rental housing properties in Sonoma and Solano counties, the Sacramento area and the Lake Tahoe region. READ MORE…

CANNABIS STUFF

Cannabis beverage brands are making inroads with liquor chains like Total Wine

n the last couple of years, cannabis beverage brands tapped into periods like Dry January or 4/20 to reach people.

But in recent years, THC beverage brands have achieved wider availability thanks to liquor store partnerships. Now, this subcategory is eying year-round growth that’s aided by markers like Dry January and 4/20 but isn’t entirely dependent on them.

Markers like 4/20 also give retailers and brands an opportunity to create awareness as they prepare for the busy summer months. In the last year, alcohol chains like Total Wine & More have brought on a number of THC beverage brands and created sections for them in their stores. The move gained popularity as liquor stores are legally allowed to sell hemp-derived products — as opposed to marijuana — that contain 0.3% or less THC. This regulation falls under the 2018 U.S. Farm Bill, which legalized hemp and derivatives such as low-dose THC. In 2022, Minnesota became the first state to legalize the sale of THC food and beverages, and other states have since followed suit.

With the growing number of brands in this category, alcohol retailers now have a number of options to choose from when deciding what alcohol alternatives to merchandise along their wine and spirits and offerings. READ MORE…

The FlynnStoned Cannabis Company, a dispensary in Syracuse, N.Y., is the size of a large clothing store. Its wooden front doors have iron handles with finials in the shape of cannabis leaves. Inside, nuggets of cannabis flower, infused candies and vaporizers are laid out in glass cases spread over two stories. A lounge under a skylight on the third floor hosts concerts and yoga classes.

It is, by nearly any measure, one of the success stories of New York’s nascent legal marijuana industry. And the man behind FlynnStoned, a 43-year-old high school dropout and roofing entrepreneur named Michael Flynn, appears poised to build a weed empire, with FlynnStoned dispensaries from Brooklyn to Buffalo.

But Mr. Flynn’s hard-charging approach has drawn ire from communities where he is seeking to open more stores. And a recent deal-making spree, in which he has cut branding agreements with dispensaries all over the state to use his name, has drawn the attention of regulators, who are investigating whether he is violating the spirit, and perhaps the letter, of the state’s legalization law.

“They’re trying to stick a pitchfork in me,” Mr. Flynn said. READ MORE…

SUSTAINABLE STUFF

South Africa makes strides in organic wine push

South Africa is stepping up its organic wine credentials as Journey’s End becomes the first vineyard and winery in the country to gain B Corp certification. The move marks a significant milestone in the nation’s push for higher sustainability standards and greater transparency in organic winemaking.

The Stellenbosch-based winery, which has prioritised sustainability since its foundation in 1995, joins a global network of businesses committed to the highest levels of social and environmental responsibility. The certification recognises Journey’s End’s commitment to ethical business practices, climate resilience, and biodiversity protection.

“As we celebrate the close of B Corp Month, Journey’s End proudly stands as a trailblazer, paving the way for future-focused, impact-driven winemaking,” said Stephanie von Oppell, global head of marketing at Journey’s End. “We hope to inspire others in the wider industry to join us on our mission to be a force for good while crafting exceptional, terroir-driven wines.” READ MORE…

Making waves: Saving time, space and energy with ultrasonics

Ultrasonics, or sonification, refers to the application of high frequency soundwaves to macerating or fermenting wines and/or musts.

“Oh,” I hear you mutter under your breath, “our humble scribe has lost it again! First he talked about playing orchestral and classical music to vines, now he’s dog whistling about soundwaves improving wine quality”. Although a relatively new idea however, it’s certainly not in the realm of fantasy.

Recently (around 2019), Ultrawine Perseo has developed the latest and most innovative eco – friendly system yet devised. Designers of this technology, Agrovin, are revolutionising the oenology sector by applying high power/low frequency ultrasound to grapes and macerating musts. It’s a notable extraction technique, without increasing temperatures or pressure. Results have proven the technique is efficient in the extraction of phenolic and aromatic compounds. This helps in alleviating the effects of climate change during the late grape ripening phase, but it also has a big impact on fermenting wines, must and where maceration times are critical.

Ultrasonics optimises winemaking processes by reducing maceration times by up to 50% and achieves energy savings of up to 15% (Agrovin research 2020). Development of the system was made possible because of the collaboration between agro- chemistry and food technology reseacrhers at the University of the UMA (Uni of Marcia 2012 – 2019) and Agrovin. In addition, it has the approval of the OIV to use ultrasound technology as an oenological practice. Ther system has obtained an international patent and has been installed and large wineries and large warehouses all around the world. In 2019, it was approved at the World Congress in Geneva by Resolution 2019/934. One of the great advantages of the system is it allow cold extraction of grape compounds through ultrasound.

The system uses a physical process called ultrasonic cavitation. It applies high-power ultrasound to the crushed paste, producing cavitation. This treatment results in the surrounding environment producing microbubbles that tend to collide with each other and release energy. This aggressive collision of the bubbles, together with the associated implosion process, wears on the skin tissue, thereby facilitating release of phenolic compounds and aromatic precursors. This advantages larger wineries because any reduction in the time devoted to maceration results in increased production capacity. READ MORE…

California weighs benefit of standards, proxy data in autonomous agriculture

Agriculture and technology experts are trying to design a new regulatory framework for autonomous tractor adoption, but they worry that the needed data collection will be limited by California’s labor laws.

Industry needs to collect a large amount of data to support autonomous tractor adoption, says Michael Miiller, California Association of Winegrape Growers director of government affairs.

But a decades-old Cal/OSHA law banning driverless tomato harvesters could curtail trials from happening in California.

“We have the need to collect data under that law, and from that data we can update the law to reflect the new technology … that bridge is the part that I think is going to be the most interesting part,” Miiller said during the Occupational Safety and Health Standards Board’s inaugural Autonomous Agricultural Tractors Advisory Committee meeting. READ MORE…

Why it’s time to stop tilling your vineyard soils

Selosse, who was present in London as a guest of Moët Hennessy, is an articulate and passionate scientist who has devoted much of his time and work to studying soils as the professor at the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle in Paris.

Due to his position, and mass of published papers on the role of ecology and mycorrhizae on plant life, he is a board member of Moët Hennessy’s World Living Soils Forum, which is a private enterprise committed to managing vineyards in a more sustainable manner.

During a discussion with db over a dinner that followed a press tour of an exhibition on soils at Somerset House – which you can read more about here – Selosse stressed the need for all farmers to work more closely with nature, rather than resort to damaging mechanical techniques and toxic man-made inputs, such as pesticides.

Not only did he advocate ditching herbicides, but also tilling soils, which is, as db has previously reported, one of the key tenets of regenerative agriculture, which aims not just to put an end to the degradation of soils, but encourage their regeneration. READ MORE…

TARIFF STUFF

Trump tariff explainer: the main takeaways

Following weeks of dangled threats from the US President that he might impose tariffs of 200% on products headed to America, the drinks trade was glued to his announcement, made yesterday (Wednesday 2 April) from the White House Rose Garden at 3 pm CT (5am GMT).

In what has been described as a total rewiring of the global economy, the changes will come into effect from 9 April 2025 and are designed to bring the US trade deficit “back to zero”, and protect American jobs and manufacturing, said Trump.

db will be delving into the potential impact of his trade policy in more detail over the coming weeks, but here are the key takeaways. READ MORE…

Trump’s tariffs: the full list

The table of ‘reciprocal tariffs’ displayed at Trump’s announcement. ‘Tariffs charged to the USA’ are Trump-defined and ‘include currency manipulation and trade barriers.’ SEE FULL LIST HERE…

OTHER STUFF

Nation’s largest alcohol wholesaler to settle contentious lawsuit

The nation’s largest alcohol wholesaler has agreed to settle a major antitrust lawsuit, one of several legal challenges that the corporation is currently facing.

Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits, which distributes products including Bacardi, Jameson and Josh Cellars, has reached a resolution with Provi, an online alcohol marketplace. Provi had sued Southern in 2022 in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of Illinois Eastern Division, alleging that Southern — along with another large wholesaler, Republic National Distributing Co. — had unlawfully boycotted its platform.

“Before this case, I never thought I’d see Southern settle,” said Sean O’Leary, a Chicago lawyer who was not involved in the litigation but has written about it extensively on his blogREAD MORE…

How a rare pink wine grape found a home in Napa Valley

Glowing on the vine like illuminated pink gumdrops, Koshu grapes are a sight to behold.

Native to Japan, where the pale pink clusters have been cultivated in the Yamanashi Prefecture for at least 1,000 years, the variety recently made its American debut thanks to Kazumi Wines in Napa Valley.

Founded by Michelle Sakazaki in 2015, Kazumi is the first winery in the U.S. to produce a Koshu wine, with fruit grown in South Napa and the Oak Knoll District. READ MORE…

Ozempic Curbs Drinking—So What Does That Mean for the Alcohol Industry?

Trova Wine and Market, a sommelier-driven wine bar in Dallas, Texas, shut its doors in January. When conducting the postmortem, owner Michelle Bonds saw two culprits: the growing sober curious movement and Ozempic.

Likewise, when Fundsmith Equity, an investment fund run by stock market guru Terry Smith, offloaded its stake in Diageo that same month, it pointed fingers at increasing threats from GLP-1 antagonists like Ozempic and Wegovy. “We suspect the entire drinks sector is in the early stages of being impacted negatively by weight loss drugs,” Smith wrote in a shareholder letter.

Ozempic and Wegovy are part of a new class of semaglutide medications (a subcategory of GLP-1 antagonists) initially introduced as a game-changing treatment for type 2 diabetes but popularized by its appetite-curbing side effects. READ MORE…

What You Need to Know About Changing Alcoholic Beverage Consumption Trends

Catering to Generation Z alcoholic beverage consumers might not be a top goal for this year, but one look at the data shows why knowing how this demographic group is reshaping the category is a must for convenience store operators today and for success in the years ahead.

Consumers from Gen Z are the newest to reach the legal drinking age and while a considerable number are still under 21, this generation currently makes up 6% of total beverage alcohol (BevAl) buyers, according to Chicago-based market researcher NIQ. Perhaps even more importantly, millions more of these young consumers will enter the BevAl space in the next 10 years.

The good news is that Gen Z shoppers predominantly turn to traditional brick-and-mortar locations when buying alcoholic beverages, with grocery holding 46% of channel share, NIQ reported. This means opportunity exists in the convenience channel for operators that stay versed in Gen Z’s evolving purchase behaviors and respond accordingly. READ MORE…


Blogs Worth a Read

Taken from the list of Blogs and other media outlets I follow regularly, here are just a few posts from this past week I think are worth a read. Shoot me a note if you have suggestions of independent media to follow or want your outlet included on that list.

How to talk about wine tariffs with your guests

Bars have always served as “third places”—the places beyond home and work where we go to decompress, connect with others, and be human. Throughout history, they’ve been keys to friendship, mutual aid, information sharing, and they have buoyed resistance movements. Not to romanticize alcohol, for there is a dark side to bars, but the bright side is that a familiar face and a well-loved drink are disarming like nothing else. And these days, there’s always an N/A option on taP.

As usual, your guests will belly up to your bar or collapse onto your vintage couch, ready to talk about what’s happening now. This week it will be tariffs. Many of them will want your insight as a person who works in the industry. If they do, it’s an opportunity to begin with tariffs and end up somewhere more poignant. Of course, staff members have to follow company policies around talking politics (unless you’re ready to risk it all, and maybe you are?). But leadership should consider the position of narrative power they wield in their community, and if the current policy is to avoid politics, maybe they should imagine what life could be like if they let the people on the front lines of their business tell your guests how they really feel.

Either way, there are ways to politely approach the glaring fact that this administration is working to make us all poorer. READ MORE…


Press Releases

These are some press releases I received this week that I actually thought were interesting…enjoy!

Kirk Lokka, Sonoma County Grower and Community Leader, Passes Away at 68

It is with great sadness that Emeritus Vineyards announces the passing of Kirk Lokka on Tuesday, March 18, 2025, at the age of 68. Over a career spanning five decades, Kirk Lokka earned a reputation as one of the most respected vineyard managers in California, known for his dedication to his craft, his family, and mentoring generations of farmers. READ MORE…

Wente Family Vineyards Unveils Strategic Rebrand and Packaging Redesign

Wente Family Vineyards, the country’s longest, continuously family-owned and operated winery, is proud to announce a significant rebrand that places the word “Family” front and center, celebrating five generations of Wente family ownership. In addition to this new identity, the winery’s labels, too, have been updated to appeal more strongly to a new generation of wine consumers, while proclaiming quality, history, and a strategic vision for the future.

The redesign primes Wente Family Vineyards to increase its shelf appeal in a crowded market. It leverages its iconic reputation at the forefront of California wine history while energizing its brand presence and driving home the label’s focus on sustainability and lighter-weight bottles. READ MORE…


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Educational posts are in no way intended as official WSET study materials. Study at your own risk. Read the full disclaimer.
**Please note: all reviews and opinions are my own and are not associated with any of my places of business. I will always state when a wine has been sent as a sample for review. Sending samples for review on my personal website in no way guarantees coverage in any other media outlet I may be currently associated with.**

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