I was so glad when a friend gifted me this wine. Mostly because I’ve previously reviewed this little-known winemaker and think he’s one of northern California wine country’s best kept secrets. Managing his own 8.5 acre vineyard site in Marin County, winemaker Stewart Johnson can now proudly claim the Petaluma Gap AVA on his bottles, since it became California’s newest AVA about 6 months ago. All of that put together, I was eager to “catch up” with Stew via his wine…
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Winery Review: Kendric Vineyards
categories: Booze, Winery Reviews
Just off San Francisco’s Bay Bridge, on the small, industrial Treasure Island are a few small businesses not too many non-SF-natives know about. And even those savvy to the SF scene may not realize that past the first few buildings that house Winery SF, Sol Rouge, and Sottomarino, there is an even smaller, more independent winery stationed in an abandoned school house — Kendric Vineyards.
Kendric Vineyards 2012 Pinot Noir Reserve
I first met Stewart Johnson, Kendric Vineyard owner and winemaker, at the 2016 Pinot Days in San Francisco where I had the pleasure of tasting this wine. But it was during my one-on-one interview and tasting at his modest Treasure Island winery that I was able to really learn about what makes this 2012 Pinot Noir Reserve so special.
Kendric Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir – A Hidden Gem
I came across Kendric Vineyards during the 2016 Pinot Days in San Francisco. I had never heard of this small, independent vineyard before, but I’m certainly glad I have. A hidden gem amongst the industrialized Treasure Island in San Francisco, Kendric Vineyards produces amazing Pinot Noirs great for Daily Drinking or Special Occasion Sips.
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Bailiwick Wines 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir
Bailiwick Wines is a fun little secret discovered by a friend at a local supermarket. What this small-lot producer’s wines were doing at a South Bay grocer, I do not know, but I am thankful that it happened. And as much as I like keeping a good secret all to myself, I also believe that good wine is worth sharing. So, I’m going to share my bottle of Bailiwick Wines Sonoma County Pinot Noir with you…but you have to promise to keep this secret between us.
About the Wine: Bailiwick Wines is a very small-lot winery, producing as little as 40 and no more than 470 cases per bottling. It’s owned and operated by brothers Paul and Brian Vias who, after years of making “basement wine,” finally left their high-tech careers to focus on Bailiwick Wines full time as of 2009. They source their grapes from all over California but use Old World winemaking techniques they learned while traveling and studying abroad. And what they produce are classically-styled wines that express the flavors of the New World — it’s an aesthetic balance that’s hard to execute, but they’ve seemed to master the art (at least when it comes to this Sonoma County Pinot Noir).
The Bailiwick Wines 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes harvested from 4 separate vineyards: Juul Vineyard (Green Valley AVA, Sonoma County), Silver Pines Vineyard (Sonoma Mountain AVA, Sonoma County), Chileno Valley Vineyard (Marin County), and Kendrick Vineyards (Marin County).
The grapes were harvested and fermented separately, blended just before barrel aging. The wine aged in French oak barrels (37% new) for 17 months.
14.4% ABV
Flavor Profile: From the bottle the Bailiwick 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir emits immediate scents of purple grapes, red strawberries along with a bit of burnt rubber in the background.
In the glass, the wine looks like a true fall flower: a dusty rose with light-yellow petal perimeter. The initial aromas are a fun combination of cherry candy, red flower perfume and that warming sensation from a good hit of alcohol. Swirl and sniff again, some of that initial alcohol will blow off and you’ll get the most subtle essence of a fog-filled ocean breeze.
For all the fruit and floral on the nose, this Pinot Noir is quite earthy — dusty earthy, like sinking into the warm sand at the beach. Let the wine linger and the mid-palate will bring forth some beautiful baking spices (I’m thinking nutmeg, cardamom, and hints of vanilla), which leads to a finish reminiscent of fresh baked cookies. In fact, after you swallow, if you close your lips and breathe through your knows, you’ll get a internal scent of blood orange and chocolate chips that perfectly complement those baking spices. On the palate, the wine leaves a twinge of heat (you know adding a dose of chili is all the choco-chip rage), which gives the finish its solidity.
Tannins here are medium, never over powering the flavor or texture; acidity is a thin, thin line from start to finish, but present enough to pull forward all the different flavor elements.
Food Pairing: I enjoyed the Bailiwick 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir with a cedar plank salmon glazed in a homemade honey-ginger balsamic, served alongside an her-based salad dressed with mandarins, feta, and dried cranberries.
What I loved about this pairing was how the fruit elements in the salad pulled those fruit aromas, sensed on the nose, forward on the palate. Meanwhile, the very light, dusty-earth texture of the wine perfectly cut through the fats and oils of the salmon, perfectly balancing the weight of the meal as a whole.
More Info: I received this bottle of Bailiwick Wines 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir as a gift. (Cheers Dave!) Suggested Retail: $36. For more information about Bailiwick and to purchase wines directly, please visit the Bailiwick Wines website.
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