“Any time you drink Grgich Hills,” I told my partner in wine crime, “you’re drinking a bit of California wine history.” So much more so when sipping on their Chardonnay seeing as how original owner and winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich has been called “The King of Chardonnay” since founding the estate back in 1977. So, needless to say, this wine’s reputation preceded itself and I was (probably over-) eager to see what “The King” is producing today.
On a recent visit to Sonoma County wine country, I popped by the mom-and-pop Lauterbach Cellars to see a boutique wine business in action. Not only was I welcome with generosity of hospitality, good spirits, and a wealth of wine knowledge — I was absolutely blown away by what this couple creates. Self-educated winemaker Stew Lauterbach and wife Barb pretty much just make the wines they like and like the wines they make. But today I want to highlight one of my favorites in the current Lauterbach line up.
I’ve been holding on to this bottle of white Port since the Prager family shipped it to me some months ago. I wanted to make sure that I was prepared — both mentally and culinarily — before I cracked the seal. I also wanted to make sure that I opened the bottle at the right time and in the right place: I wanted to make sure I was surrounded by loved ones with which to share this wine adventure. A family product like Prager Port deserves such attention and occasion.
If you’re at all familiar with Sonoma County wines, then the name Bacigalupi probably at least rings a bell. Charles and Helen Bacigalupi purchased their original16 acres of existing vineyards back in 1956 simply maintaining the pre-existing plantings. It wasn’t until 1964 that Charles started to experiment with, the now notorious California varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Back then, Bacigalupi was solely a vineyard, not a wine producer, but the name gained serious recognition during the 1976 Paris tasting when the 1973 Napa Valley Chardonnay from Chåteau Montelena — made with 40% Bacigalupi grapes — beat out the French competition.
Indeed, the Bacigalupi’s main business is still sourcing their grapes to various wineries around the Sonoma wine region and include such major players as William Selyem. But the Bacigalupi family do boast their own wine label as well, producing just around 2000 cases annually. So, to taste and to buy, one must visit the Bacigalupi Westside Road winery in Healdsburg.
On a recent visit with Steve and Brian at Crux Winery, I was reminded of how and why their wine is so amazing. Of course I couldn’t leave my visit without a bottle (or two, or three, or four…). One of the stand-outs, for me, is their 2014 Viognier. It’s unlike any other Viognier I’ve come across in taste, texture…and sight.
