I decided to play a fun game with myself. Having received the newest Chardonnay releases from Talley Vineyards, each of which highlights a separate vineyard in California’s Central Coast, I wanted to see if I could taste the difference between each. The short answer to that question: yes, yes I can.
This post is entitled ChardonNay or ChardonYay because, in case you haven’t picked up from previous posts, I personally have a hard time with the variety. Chardonnay is like putty in a winemaker’s hands—it will mold or melt, form or fragment depending on how much he or she wants to “do” with it. It easily picks up on oak barrel spices; delivers the toast and bread-y notes from lees aging; and if ever there was a variety that can speak to the aromas and flavors from malolactic conversion, it is Chardonnay. Indeed, the grape can be easily manipulated and, oft times (especially in the new world), over-worked.
So, I was not only curious if I could taste the difference between the various vineyards, I was curious if I’d have a preference between them. The short answer to that question: yes, yes I did.
Note: While this wasn’t a “blind” tasting per se, I did take all notes written below prior to reading any information provided by the winery—despite the order in which I publish the results.
WINE 1: TALLEY VINEYARDS 2018 ESTATE CHARDONNAY
About the Wine: The Talley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay is a compilation of the below single vineyards (and most likely a few others). According to the Talley Vineyards website, the family-owned winery includes six estate vineyards in both the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Eden Valley AVAs.
The Estate Chardonnay was barrel fermented with native yeast and aged for 11 months in French oak barrels (25% new) and 3 months in tank
13.6% ABV
Price: $30
Appearance: pale lemon
Aroma: medium (+) intensity; youthful; aromas include bread dough, apple, lemon, pear, nectarine, blossom, grass, nasturtium and agave nectars, vanilla
Palate: The palate is dry with medium alcohol, medium (+) acidity, medium body, and a medium flavor intensity. Similar in flavor as aroma, the most pronounced of those named were the apple, blossom and bread dough, while also introducing a bit of toast and baking spice as well. The finish is medium in length.
Conclusion: Based on the WSET criteria, I concluded that the Talley Vineyards 2018 Estate Chardonnay is a good wine that one can enjoy now, but isn’t intended for any kind of long-term aging. I found that the wine was balanced between acid, body, and alcohol—everything maintained a solid medium level. I did find that it lacked in intensity, especially on the palate. The finish fell a bit short for me as well, but I must add that what did linger for that modest amount of time was a beautiful lemon merengue sensation.
WINE 2: TALLEY VINEYARDS 2018 ROSEMARY’S VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
About the Wine: According to the winery, Rosemary’s Vineyard is the coolest vineyard site farmed by the Talley family and comprises of Lopez Very Shaly Loam soil. Yields average less than three tons per acre. With original plantings dating to 1987, the 29-acre vineyard is planted to 17 acres of Pinot Noir and 12 acres of Chardonnay.
The 2018 Rosemary’s Vineyard Chardonnay was barrel fermented with native yeast. The wine aged sur lie for 14 months in French oak barrels (28% new).
13.9% ABV
Price: $60
Appearance: pale lemon; I also noticed a bit of effervescence and just a touch of sedimentation in this wine.
Aroma: The aroma had a medium or medium (-) intensity for me. (I found myself really having to swirl the wine around and stick my nose way in there to get the aromatics to reveal themselves.) The nose is youthful in nature consisting of scents of yogurt, apple, lemon, milk or cream, wet stone, and a hint of coconut.
Palate: The palate is dry, with medium alcohol, medium (+) acid, medium body, and a medium (+) flavor intensity. Again, flavor profile matched that of the aromatic profile with the most pronounced flavors being green apple, toast/biscuit, lemon/lime (almost lemon-lime soda-ish here on the palate), greek yogurt, bread dough, and an introduction of mandarin orange. The finish was medium (+) in length.
Conclusion: Based on the WSET criteria, I concluded that the Talley Vineyards 2018 Rosemary’s Vineyard Chardonnay was very good. Notice how, though the aroma and palate profile are similar, the palate profile specified some of those aromatics (i.e.: the yogurt showed as greek yogurt, the apple showed as green apple). I also found that the mouth feel had a bit of a backbone, a hint of texture, what I call “phenolic grip.” These two elements made me think that there was some lees aging (as well as French oak influence and perhaps a hint of ML), thus I found the wine to be balanced, with appropriate intensity, as well as complex. Again, the finish did fall just short of long. This wine can certainly be enjoyed now, but I believe that with the structural integrity, it has the potential for aging further in bottle as well.
WINE 3: TALLEY VINEYARDS 2018 OLIVER’S VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
About the Wine: The winery states that Oliver’s Vineyard, named for Talley Farms founder Oliver Talley, is a 35-acre vineyard with 29 acres dedicated to Chardonnay. The soil type is mainly Marimel Sandy Clay Loam, a calcareous sandy clay loam. The vines are moderately vigorous; yields average about three tons per acre.
The Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay fermented in barrel with native yeast. The wine aged for 14 months in French oak (23% new).
14% ABV
Price: $50
Appearance: pale lemon; The wine also presented a bit of effervescence and just a touch of sedimentation.
Aroma: youthful with medium (+) intensity. Aromas include apple, blossom, toast, flint, lemon, grapefruit, toasted bread, milk/cream (slight), pear, nectarine, nutmeg/baking spices, and dried grass.
Palate: The palate is dry, with high alcohol, medium body, medium (+) acid, and a medium (+) flavor intensity. Here, the palate perfectly mimicked those aromatic notes listed above. I also noticed a bit of phenolic grip that presented itself in the flavor and texture of grapefruit pith/skin/oil. For the finish, I was on the border of a medium (+) to long. Either way the finish had an enjoyable smokey/flinty/stoney quality.
Conclusion: Based on the WSET criteria, and because I was undetermined on the length, I am concluding that this wine is very good. Fruits flavors are well balanced between freshness and bitterness (as if tasting the pulp and the skin). The aromatic and flavor profiles touch on primary, secondary, and even hint at potential tertiary notes. That along with the phenolic grip gave the wine an elegant complexity. I think the wine is quite enjoyable now, but believe it does have the potential to age further in the bottle.
WINE 4: TALLEY VINEYARDS 2018 RINCON CHARDONNAY
About the Wine: Rincon Vineyard is where the Talley first planted their vines back in 1982 and where the winery is located today. According to the winery, the soils here are shallow, comprised of several types, the most predominant of which is Diablo Clay, a dark calcareous clay known to assist in limiting vine vigor. The Rincon Vineyard is the largest of the Talley family’s vineyards, consisting of 62 acres, 23 of which is dedicated to Chardonnay.
The 2018 Rincon Vineyard Chardonnay was barrel fermented with native yeast. The wine aged sur lie for 14 months in French oak barrels (26% new).
14.1% ABV
Price: $50
Appearance: pale lemon; The wine also presented a bit of effervescence and just a touch of sedimentation.
Aroma: youthful, medium intensity. Aromas include milk/cream, yellow apple, pear, honey, wet grass, acacia, toast, vanilla, and lime skin/pith.
Palate: The palate is dry with high alcohol, medium acidity, a medium (+) and round body, with a medium (+) flavor intensity. Flavors mirror those found in the aromatic profile listed above with the addition of baking spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, ginger, and a hint of orange rind. The finish is medium (+) and speaks to that orange note.
Conclusion: Based on the WSET criteria I conclude that the the 2018 Rincon Vineyard Chardonnay is good to very good. I was debating between the two conclusions because the level of complexity was in question. The aromatic profile, which was a medium intensity, did not show a lot of differentiation in the aromatic profile categories. However, because the palate did showcase more of those spice notes and had a bit of structural texture, I’m going to say that the wine is complex. I also faltered with intensity, but again because the palate introduced a few new flavors, I’m going to say it ticks that box as well. However, the finish fell short of long and, therefore, the wine falls into the ‘very good’ conclusion. This wine probably has the potential for bottle age, I’m just not as convinced of it as I was with the other two listed above.
More Info: I received the Talley Vineyards 2018 Chardonnays as samples for review. (Cheers!) Prices listed above. For more information about Talley Vineyards, their wine, and to purchase wine directly, please visit the Talley Vineyards website.
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